Some last adventures

Three boys I met collecting things for a fire on the road to Sna Pedro
This is Rosa Angela who we met in San Pedro. She became a wonderful little companion

Ok there are a few stories I want to get out in this one. A day that will be remembered forever and Semana Santa in Antigua. Well I guess that technically makes two stories but each has many different parts.

Ok lets get the time line out here. So after Lago Yojoa we went to another series of small towns and sill events and ended in Copán where the ruins which raised some pretty interesting questions for Mary and I as to our religious and spiritual beliefs. After Copán at the end of March we headed into Guatemala and had some fun within swarms of bats in Lanquin. After Lanquin we made it to Semuc Champey where we had one of the most memorable days of the trip.

The day is divided into 3 and two half parts. That may not make sense now but I think it will. One of the half parts came first. We got picked up in Lanquin and rode in the back of a truck to Semuc with a breathtaking view as we lowered down in between the mountains. We arrived at Hospedaje de Las Marias and set up a tour through las cuevas (caves) de las Marias which is one of the three parts.

We unloaded our stuff and Mary and I got ready for the tour. We were told to just wear our bathing suits and our clothes and bring nothing else. We are then told that it is just the two of us on the tour. Our guide takes us to the mouth of Las Cuevas da las Marias when we step straight into a foot of water. We are each given a candle and our guide has a water proof head lamp to lead us through the darkness. Now what fascinates me is how much accessibility there is to things in other countries. When I think about how this cave would be set up to be explored is that there would be lights implimented and a walkway so that you didnt have to touch the water. However in Guatemala we found ourselves swimming through the caves holding the candle above our heads so as not to burn it out.

Mary and I could not control ourselves laughing and having to pinch each other to make sure that it was really happening. We were brought back deep into the cave where we could mainly walk and then suddenly be plunged into water again surrounded by stalactites and stalagmites of all formations. At some parts we had to scales walls using a rope and others we would wedge ourselves between columns only to find we had to jump down into another pool of water. My favorite part was swimming through a tunnel that was submerged under the water. (Now this part was optional but I couldnt pass it up) Our guide Sebastian took us farther back than the larger groups get to go because it was jusdt the two of us. We spent some time in the complete darkness seeing what it is like to close your eyes and not see a single difference in how it looks.

We finally made our way out of the cave with our hearts pumping and our heads filled with excitement of the adventure that we had just encountered. Outside of the cave we are each given an inner tube and tie our clothes that had been waiting for us on our heads. Along side the caves floats a river that we jump into and it gently carries us down to our hostal after a nice 30 minute float.

Part number two. After a small lunch Mary and I, now equiped with camera and other tools, head on the walk to Semuc Champey. Semuc Champey is a beautiful natural colection of crystal clear pools. Each one flowing into the next with aqua water and new little treats to explore. At first Mary and I hike up to the Mirador to get a view of the whole from above which looks like pure perfection even though we are sweating every ounce of water that we had consumed througout the day.

We finally make our way down to the water and it is the most refreshing feeling ever. There are little fish that on occasion come over to nibble at your toes but for the most part you are free to dive, swim, wade and sit in complete relaxation in the cool crisp clean water. It felt like a full day and yet it wasnt over yet. We gathered our things and headed on the walk back and stopped at a families home to eat some watermellon and have a few beers. Part number three. The family was incredibly welcoming and all the neighborhood kids came by to stare and the foreigners that came to visit. We found ourselves listening to music laughing and dancing and before I new it we got wrapped up in a small game of soccer on the neighboring field. It was definitley a fabulously happy ending to an incredible day.

The View of Chemuc Champey

Up Close and Personal

Semana Santa in Antigua is another story. Every body had told us that if you wanna see the most elaborate and exciting events for Semana Santa go to Antigua so weeks ahead of time we booked our hotel and just worked on getting ourselves amped up. We showed up exhausted thursday and were told that thursday ngith you stay up all night so we took a nap. There are a few elements to Semana Santa in Antigua that make it so breathtaking. The carpets and the processions. The carpets and made my families and other groups to for the processions to walk over. People stay up all night preparing them for the first procession that starts at 4am friday morning.

The carpets are made out of shaved marble, pines from trees, a specific white flower and sawdust. Others can also have fruit and flowers and we even saw one that had a turtle in a pool in the center which we were informed would be moved once the procession got to it. Many are beautifully detailed and it was fascinating to watch the care that went into each section. The processions that came through on Friday are all about the curcifixion of christ and are carried only by men. The processions on Saturday are of The Virgin Mary and her sorrow and are carried only by women. The processions on the final Sunday are of the resurection and carried by anyone who wants too with a much more jovial energy.
Here is me doing my part to get involved I am stamping down sawdust to make it flat for the carpet.

The beginnings of another carpet


The colors are all the marble shavings

Everyone makes different designs. This is the center of the Mayan Calendar

Here is the first procession of the last week coming out at 4am.


Here is the procession as it crosses a finished carpet

This is the finish of the one that i had helped with as I make it back to my room at 6am

The streets in Antigua were constantly filled with international and national travelers who came to see all the excitement. It was definitely an experience I will not forget and how much emotion and devotion people put into their commitment to their god. I felt humbled and appreciative to take part in it all. I even helped a bit to make a carpet with a spanish school.
A fun hike up a volcano outside of Antigua Volcan Pacaya

My first lava sighting. I had no idea how much heat it can create.

Heres the proof I was near it.

Photos!!!!!

Here are some photos to catch you up on how things are looking down here

This is from Las Penitas the beach right outside of Leon, Nicaragua


Here is the Catedral in the central Plaza in Leon, Nicaragua

This is the view of the roof tops from the Sandinista Museum

Here is the Cathedral standing on the roof of the Sandinista Museum




here are the kids that are part of the pre and after school program that is run by the community. We visited them right before they went to school.

These cows seemed to have no interest in getting out of our way as we headed to the beach.


Here are the Cacoa beans before they are crushed to make chocolate that we saw at the factory in Matagalpa ¨Happy Town¨Nicaragua

Thats me crushing the beans

All the chocolate is made that way by one of three women


Chocolate!!!!!


This is a marsh on a walk that Mary and I took around Matagalpa

There is a view of the city from afar

More of our awesome scenic walk


We came across some chickens


And some cows


I think this is a Ceiba tree but I am not sure

The church in Matagalpa

The soccer game where our team destroyed the other team


The wonderful street and saying good bye to Matagalpa

And saying hellow to the beaches of Utila, Bay Islands, Honduras


Our friend enjoying the wonderful water

Meredith and I took a nice peaceful walk out to the dock



On the boat going out to Scuba dive for Mary and Snorkel for me and Mere




Sting Ray just chillin


Pumpkim Hill at one end of Utila

At the top of Pumpkin Hill

The view of the island


The three of us M´s making out mark

Discovering the back streets of Utila

More of the ilsand

Love Love Love

Me and Lily at Lago Yojoa in Honduras

The marshy swamp of Lago Yojoa

Happy town and Crazy town

There are two places I want to talk about in this blog and those are Matagalpa, Nicaragua and Utila in the Bay Islands off the coast of Honduras.

Elke and Mary and I Met up in Leon, Nicaragua after Elke and I spent a little over a week exploring the lands of El Salvador of which I have much to share but I feel I should get you all current. My figures just cant type everything that I have to say. Ok so after Leon we head to a town called Matagalpa. The odd part about this is I was very hesitant to stay there. I had heard about a smaller town nearby named Jinotega that I was dead set on staying at. So we agreed to spend a night in a coffee finca and a night in Jinotega and then return to Matagalpa because Mary had her heart set there. I soon learned not to trust my prejudgment of the city.

Our brief interaction with the residents of Matagalpa before we boarded the bus to the Finca was hilarious and Elke and I soon nicknamed the city ¨Happy Town.¨ The coffee finca was something else. As we got off the bus and walked the kilometer driveway to the lodge we became surrounded by the coffee pickers taking their lunch break. It became very evident to us as we approached the lodge that this was a place for the rich and the unconcerned. Talking with the workers we learned the wages were not that high and they had to rent the baskets that thay used to pick the coffee from their employer each day. The three of us found ouselves quite preturbed by our surroundings. Granted the mountain itself we rested on was gorgeous but givng any kind of money to the finca just felt dirty. So we left the next day.

The next night in Jinotega we skirted what we deemed an almost robbery and felt very proud of our street smarts and awareness. The night was windy and town was dead so we rested and were ready to get back to Happy Town as soon as possible. My one note to say about Jinotega is that I found myself in a place of worship and felt enveloped within a warm blanket of care and love. I am not a religious person by any means and I have explored many churches and Temples and other places of worship but when we walked into the catholic church in the center of town we all sat in wondered and acknowledged to each other how good it felt to just be invited inside. There wasnt anything spectacular on the walls it just felt good. That is all I can really share about it.

So we made it back to Matagalpa and got our place to stay. Every single person on the street met us with a smile and we were feeling good. We had bought some chocolate the day before that was overwhelmingly tintilating and we soon learned that the factory was right there in Matagalpa so we decided for Elke´s last day with us that is what we would do. We soon discovered that all the chocolate was made by the hands of three women. We were in euphoria. They showed us every step and allowed us to taste every step. It was the purest chocolate I have every tasted. (And dont worry I am still hanging on to a bar to nibble slowly) Though we left with belly aches it was the most appetizing belly ache I had ever had.

Elke left us the next morning and it was just Mary and I. Happy Town did not let us down. We took walks around the city and soon made some good friends. On another day we went to a nearby town and saw a different process of coffee making where it was all made by the community that had become a cooperative and all the profits when right back into the community. I felt extremely honored and humbled to have their world shared with me. There is no question in my mind that the richest moments in life can be found anywhere and wealth is not accounted for in dollars.

Another day our new friends took us to their soccer game which I had been waiting to go to a local game my entire trip. Our team won by three, los ¨Atleticos¨ and afterwards we celebrated the dia inernacional de la Mujer ¨International day for Women¨ On march 8th. The energy in Happy Town that whole week had been so high and filling. Mary and I finally left happy town feeling spirited and fully alive ready for the next adventure.

Our next adventure required the addition of our friend Meredith who needed to make a visa run from Panama so she met up with us. We headed up to Honduras where she flew in and we made our way over to the Caribbean coast to catch a ferry to the Island Utila. I dont know if my description will give the reality of this island any justice but I will do my best.

Utila is a divers mecca of deep sea and sandy beaches. We walk of the ferry and are instantly bombarded by foreigners working in the dive shops trying to suck you in with their special deals and prices. We soon sidestepped the masses and found through the two cluttered streets that make up the only city on the island a cheap little place to stay filled with many other exuberant travelers. Though the accomodations were cheap the food was not and neither was the beer. The streets are filled with little spanish and mostly english though I cant really tell you that the english that is spoken by the locals is the english that I grew up speaking. I met many people that I could understand but everyonce in a while the three of us ladies were stopped in our tracks by someones conversation where the only way we knew it was english was by the random swear words that were shot out.

We found ourselves fitting right in and soon made friends with some fellow oregonians that worked at the nearby dive shop. Of course we won them over with our Meagan, Meredith and Mary charm and soon found the boat that would take Mary out for her dives and Meredith and I could tag along for some great snorkeling, lunch and all you can drink beers under the sun on their private beach. Not too shabby. Mere and I saw many beautiful fish and a spotted eagle ray. I also saw some 4 ft long fish whose name I cant remember but I know it started with a T. The biggest excitement was when we found ourselves floating over a feeding whale shark. We suited up quickly to get in the water but by the time we were about to jump in the beautiful creature had decided it wasnt our time and shooted off into the water.

Another day on the island we went exploring by land and hiked the highest peak (a tiny hill) called Pumpkin hill and saw the incredible greeness of the island that extended far beyond the compact bussling town of East Harbour. On the way back we skipped over the main road and found ourselves exploring beyond the main road. The smell soon overhwelmed us as we saw the marsh land below the high stilted houses covered in plastic trash that continued to compile. It was a disturbing sight considering how clean the front roads are. We were told that because the sidewalk going back into that section is so narrow they have no garbage pick up system and the residents have seemed to ignore it and continue to add to the waste. We were simply reminded that nothing is as it seems and it is importants to not take things at first glance for things can always change your perspective.

So I will leave you here. For date references we left Matagalpa on March 10th and I left Utila on the 18th. I am sorry that I have not posted anything about El Salvador or my time in San Jose too much however I have just not found the internet time I wanted and the world around keeps adding new elements and surprises. I hope for all of you who read this you are enjoying your own adventure.

Moving north and fast

Well I will tell you know I do not have many exciting adventures for you from Costa Rica. I had two goals there: to see my wonderful friend Leland and his wonderful girlfriend, also my friend, Monica and to move on through to Nicaragua so that I could get to El Salvador to meet my other wonderful friend Elke. I had spent much time in Costa Rica in the psat so I was not feeling to sad about moving through it and I had heard so many great things about Nicaragua that I was excited to get there.

Mary on the other hand did not know much about Costa Rica so we decided that it was time to separate for a little bit. I would head up and meet Elke and then we would meet up in Northern Nicaragua in about two weeks. We said our good byes in San Jose, Costa Rica and began our solo journeys.

I made it to Nicaragua a few days later and the highlight that I am going to share with you is Isla del Ometepe in Lago Nicaragua. I spent three days on this beautiful island and I long to go back and spend some more. (Mom I would take you here if we traveled together). The Island was formed by two huge volcanoes, Concepcion and Maderas. There is a myth that Princess from long ago and her lover were banned to see each other by the king so they decided to die together. As she they against him and began to die she threw her head back and her breasts swelled forming the two valcanoes. They say that her lover turned into some other little valcano but I cant remember all the details. Its cheesy I know! Anyways I decided to stay at the base of Maderas which is the shorter of the two. i think it is at 1600 meters.

I stayed in a little town called Mérida and I fell in love with it. I can´t really say there is a town but there is a dirt road that everyone hangs out on outside of their homes. I met some other kids from Germany and one from Oregon and we took a stroll. The community as a sense of warmth that I cant describe. Walking down the street you find yourself caught in conversation after conversation. Little kids want you to take their picture so they can see themselves and laugh. Pigs wander around rolling in the mud and avoiding the cows and the chickens. Older people walking along the street wish you luck with your future and that you are having a wonfderful day, which I definitely was. We found a little restuarant at the waters edge owned by a spaniard who welcomed us in with open arms.

That evening I arranged a guide to hike the Valcano the next day. I woke up early and we headed out. I have dont many three four hour hikes so I figured I was up for the challenge. I was told that it was about an 8 hour day and that the time it took up would be about the same getting down which I couldnt understand but soon learned why. Trail began off light and I could see that the peak was covered in clouds I explained to the guide that that was no problem I had faith that when we reached the top the clouds would clear. We moved through lush cloud forest and saw a coral snake. No monkeys in sight however which I had to accept. Pretty soon the hiking skills were challenged. The trail turned more north and for those who have hiked the Butte it was like the steepest part of the Butte for about an hour and a half. I began to worry that I might not make it knowing I had another two hours to go but I focused and kept moving.

So I found my gait and thought I was doing great. We were soon enveloped in clouds and I could tell it was cold but couldnt feel it due to the amout of heat I was creating in my movement. I got well into the climb feeling comfident when the trail took a very harsh turn straight up. Soon I was scaling the side of the valcano using every tree branch and vine I could find to support myself. I thought I might die of exhaustion. The other two boys that were in fairly good shape acknowledged as well that they were not prepared for it to be this difficult. Though I moved slower and kept moving. Little by little I knew eventually we would get there. Our guide however decided to discourage us and everytime we asked how much longer he said an hour and a half. Finally we made it to the top. I was in much disbelief that I did not have to heave myself up anymore rock walls.

The clouds were still abundant so we could not see the lake that was supposedly in the center of the crater so we ventured down to take a closer look. We arrived at the lake 45 minutes later and as we did the clouds began to part. The bright blue sky came out and call could be seen. It was gorgeous. We bathed in the muddy water not that that did much to wash off the dried caked mud up my entire body but it was refreshing. After lunch we headed back of the crater to check out the view. Incredible is all I could think and after eating I was amazed at the new found energy I felt.

On the way down I saw birds, blue sky, breathtaking views of the island and Concepción and all the howler monkeys I could have imagined. It was awesome and I felt so accomplished and victorious. I celebrated the night away with my new friends from the island and enjoy a few glasses of wine with the Spaniard. Not too mention the most beautiful sunset I think I have every seen. Isla Ometepe treated me well and I could of spent many more days kayaking and wandering the streets. But I knew I had to get moving since Elke was still waiting for me up in El Salvador.

A few days later I found myself arriving in San Salvador, El Salvador and my wonderful friends smiling face was waiting for me.

The rest of Panama and... THE BORDER CROSSING

Ok there are many components to the last few weeks that will be hard to sum up and should probably be in multiple blogs but the way the traveling has been going I have found very few moments in front of the internet and so I figure I should catch you up now and do my best to stay on top of it in the future.

I spent a little more time in the city and Mary and Meredith and I did some exploring of Isla Grande for a few days on the Caribbean side of Panama. It was a very quiet island only to be experienced on foot. There is a little path around the island but due to the high tide we were unable to make it all the way. It was very nice to have another few days outside of the city in tranquility. We got back to the city and I gathered my stuff to head north. Mary was going to stay int he city a bit longer and meet up north with Meredith so I joined up with my friends Hopi and Katie to explor some of the center of Panama.

The three of us said good by to all of our friends and the city and headed north to Santa Fe a small mountain town where we heard we could escape from the heat for a bit. We took a tiny bus to this little town and instantly felt the cool air. We walked up the road to where we were told we would find the hostel that I had made reservations at. It was a beautiful looking log cabin with an encredible large garden with the sound of birds everywhere. I was very excited to get a nights sleep without city noises of cars and horns and very loud construction. What I forgot that the country has its own noises. We had a very peaceful evening and went to bed early. At about 4:30 am the roosters began and they seemed to be everywhere. Then the dogs began to wake up and for the next three hours it was the animals the that took control of my ear occupation (does that even make sense). Anyways the sleep was not as great as I had been escited for but we got up ready to have a day of nature and hiking.

We chose our path that ended in a waterfall with swimming holes called Cascada del Salto. A woman helping out at the hostel offered to drive us to the trail head which actually was more like a wide dirt road. We were told pretty specific directions and that we would come to a families home that could give us a snack and take to the waterfall by their home so felt confident as we headed out. We walked up and up and up along the dirt road and as we got higher and higher the green around us looked more and more breath taking as we looked down into the valley from which we had come.

After about two hours and passing the turn off we turned around and found the house we had been looking for. The kids ran to greet us and one girl showed us to the waterfall and talked to us about her life there. The area of Santa Fe seems very well off in the sense that most of the comunity is self sustained with fertile land and plenty of food and family to share the time with. The fed us a little and we had a great refreshing swim in the water before heading back just in time for it to get too dark for us to see. We had another relaxing evening and an early moring of animal noises before we prepared ourselves to move on north.

We made it to Bocas del Toro, the islands of the northern Caribbean side, after stopping one night in the cloud forest en route in the middle of nowhere on wednesday Jan 28th. I had spent a little over three weeks on the islands before and was excited to see how it had changed and if any of my friends were still living there. We pulled up to the island and i instlantly saw many of the changes. On the main road there were about ten new hotels to clearly portray the jump in tourism over the last two years. Though much of the vibe of the island seemed quite the same. People greating you on the street making sure you didnt need a boat to another island or a place to stay. We made our way to the hostal where we met up with Meredith, Mary and another friend Shasta.

The next week on the island was spent on many different beaches though due to the recent rainy season that was extrememly larger than usual many of the beaches that I had known had shrunk immensly in size. One of the things I loved about the islands from before is how quickly you can find yourself feeling like one of the community. Walking down the street many people stop to talk to you and you can quickly find yourself saying many hellos to familiar faces and you make your way to the store. I made some new friends but had the best time catching up with old friends that I had stayed in touch with. My favorite was Fernando who Meredith and I had spent much time with before who always had a big grin on his face and shared how excitment to celebrate la vida (life). I had not talked with in in a bit but on one of my last days he saw me on the street and we had a fabulous reunion of celebration and hugs. We caught each other up on our lives and rejoiced in the excitement of seeing each other again after such a long time.

Mary also learned quickly the comfort of acceptance on the island and as we discussed our plans to leave the date kept getting pushed back farthur and farthur. Another exciting thing that happened during our time on the island that I did not get to enjoy last time was the torrents of rain. Granted I had seen plently of rain but not for 72 hours straight where you wait until the rain lightens to run the distance to where you want to go before the showers hit hard again. Meredith and Shasta had left at this point but for our last 4 days we saw a glimpse of what can happen on the island when the weather starts making statements. The two atm machines ran out of money and were not filled for a day. The interenet was in and out but mainly out. The boats were not running and the roads on the mainland we soon were informed had closed. I started to realize that we may get stuck there if we do not make an attempt soon. So Mary and I made plans.

When we were informed that the road had opened we said good bye to all of our new and wonderful friends and left around 6am friday morning the 6th with two Brasilians in tow. The morning shined on us with the first break in the clouds in four days and we got a little sun as we got the boat to the main land. We speedily made it to the border to find it had been completely washed out and we would not be able to cross. A tiny tourismo bus looking to make the days pay offered to drive us and other travelers to the other border cross four hours away. We figured it was the best option so as the rain began again we climbed aboard assured that the road we were taking was open and we would arrive on the other side by 1pm.

We made it about an hour down the road crammed in together with no problems until we were stopped abruptly. I looked out the window and saw what looked like a protest blocking the road. Mary and the brasilians and I were in complete disbelief. We began to do some investigationg and found out that the little town of Chiriqui Grande's dam and broken the night before and destroyed some houses. They were demanding aid from the government to make sure that everything got fixed. So they decided to block the road. The only road from Changinola to David and up to the other border crossing. So we started to brainstorm.

We finally figured out that they were only going to be blocking the road for the next hour and then would disperse so we waited it out. They did some cheering and chanting then there seemed to be some group discussions and within a litle over an hour they seemed to get sme satisfied answer they cheered and milled out of the way and we were moving once again. We finally pulled up to the border at around 3:30pm and made it through all the customs stuff only to arrive on the other side in Costa Rica to discover that we had missed the last bus to San Jose.

So Mary, the two brasilians and I spent the night in Paso Canoas. It was a relaxing evening with a swimming pool, airconditioning and TV with cable all of which I had not experienced for quite some time. SO we indulged and got up early the next morning to get to San Jose, Costa Rica.

La Ciudad y Kunayala

It is weird being back in the city I had seen two years ago younger and more confused than ever about what was coming next in my life. Though at that time I had also been becoming more comfortable in the change of elements around me. When I had finished my last trip I had been feeling comfortable exploring outside of my comfort zone and it was what was familiar to me that became bizarre and awkward. Before I began this second expedition through Central America I was filled with excitement and anticipation to be back in the elements of newness and over awareness of my surroundings. Mary, my wonderful friend from home that is accompanying me on this journey, and I had a great time preparing ourselves mentally as we drove through California visiting friends and making our way to LA for our flight to Panama City.

Primero quiero decir que mi español no es perfecto y voy a traducir el mejor que puedo. Estoy en la ciudad de Panama por la segunda vez y es muy raro despues de dos años. Antes yo era mas joven y mas confundida del futuro. La primera vez estaba sintiendo mas comoda en el ambiente. Cuando terminé mi ultimo viaje yo estaba mas comoda en sitios nuevos y desconocidos y era las cosas familiares que parecian mas descomodas y raras. Antes de este viaje yo estaba llena de emocion a volver a la vida de un backpacker. Mary, mi buena amiga quien viajando conmigo, y yo teniamos un buen tiempo preparandonos mentalmente cuando fuimos por california para llegar al aeropuerto en Los Angeles.

I am reminded and reminded how our lives are forever changing and my new lesson had been that i Still have many many lessons ahead of me. My life at 26 is very different from what it had been when I started my last trip through South America just turning 24. The excitement rose as we stepped off the plane and our bodies became engulfed in sweltering muggy heat at 10pm Wednesday Jan 7th. Waiting for us with mine and Mary's names on a sign was Mario, the hostels driver. He took us to Luna's Castle hostel where our good friends Meredith and Wakan and Dain have been working for the last year. It was great to see friends and be back in Casco Viejo the old part of the city where I had stayed when I was traveling with Meredith the first time.

Me recuerdo como la vida está cambiando siempre y mi lección nueva es que tengo muchas lecciones mas en el futuro mio. Tengo veinti seis años y es muy diferente de cuando tenia veinti cuatro durante el primero viaje. La emocion levantó adentro de yo cuando llagamos a la ciudad y podiamos sentir el calor a las diez en la noche en la septima de enero. Mario, el conductor, estaba esperandonos afuera para llevarnos al hostel donde trabaja algunos amigos desde un año.

A few things have changed in the city since the last time I was here. Tourism has blown up and people are discovering the wonders of Panama. Everything that felt comfortable before I had to re accustom myself to. The catcalls on the street made by every male. The awareness that everyone is staring directly at you with no care of the effect. The buildings are still all crumbling to the ground and all the old restaurants I remember are around. But I quickly became antsy and impatient within a few days. I soon remembered that traveling you never are alone. You are always checking in with fellow companions to see who is hungry who is going out and what we are planning for the day. You wake up in the morning to people you pass the day with people and you go to bed with people. I finally took a long walk with just myself and sat for an hour over looking the water. the awareness of my tranquility and silence of mind instantly relaxed me. So I am slowly readjusting to my old life as a back packer.

La ciudad ha cambiado un poquito. Hay mucho mas turismo y todo que era co

I was sick with a slight cold for the first few days of arrival so we took it easy and were soon joined my our friends Kelsy, Wakan, Hopi, Dain and Katie who had been exploring outside of the city. We celebrated Hopi's birthday at fancy shmancy restaurant where we were given all the courses of the highest quality. I spent time re exploring the city and even got to visit with some friends that I had made the first time on my visit.


On the 12th Mary and I decided it was time to do some exploring outside of the City so we scheduled a jeep to take us to Cartí on the Caribbean side to catch a boat out to the San Blas Islands known as Kunayala. Now for those that followed my last trip may remember a story of Meredith and I taking a Jeep to catch a boat to Cartegena, Colombia. They may also recall that the jeep ride was horrific and took us 12 hours with many in the mud pulling cars up hills and flipping them over in the rain. This is the same path Mary and I have scheduled and the same Islands that Meredith and I sailed though but we are going to the more inhabited ones and sleeping on the islands as opposed to the boat. I was also told that the muddy road has been being repaired and improved.

At 4:30 am we woke up to get picked up. The ride was a completely different experience. It took us 3 1/2 hours and we arrived without having to get out of the jeep and pull at any moment. However I was exhausted. We were then picked up in a long wooden boat and a small motor attached to take us out to the Island.
We arrive to a island covered on every inch with Kuna huts made of Palm trees and other wood. Nixia is there to greet us a local who sets up most of the trips for the tourists. We are served breakfast and then taken in another boat out to Isla Diablo where we are dropped off with 3 guys from France and an Argentine. We are given hammocks and shown a hut to hang them in then the boat leaves. We soon meet Jimmy a 73 year old who I find out later is Nixia's grandfather. He lives on and owns the island.



I don't know if I could really explain what it is like to be looking at some of the most beautiful tropical islands. When traveling I often imagine documentaries I have seen or movies that show similar places and then have to shake myself into reality of understanding that it is not a movie and I am literally in the middle of it 3d everywhere I look white sand turqoise water and palm trees everywhere. If that doesn't make you feel good I don't know what does.


The kuna have a smaller stature and spend most of their time fishing, protecting and caring for coconuts and making beautifully sewn art called Mora (at least I think). The few that I spent time with are incredibly nice and humble. I could tell that tourism had taken over their lives in the last five years and now much of their time was cooking meals for gringos and business business business when it came to trying to sell their art to the older retirees who get off the cruise ships.

Life overwhelmed me out their on the islands trying to find my place of comfort sharing a strangers home and life for a matter of days in the most respectful way I could. I helped Jimmy gather pieces of palm trees and coconuts over the island for a fire and he talked with Mary and I as we washed our dishes on how life has become stressful with tourism and we are the first who ever helped him with anything. It made me sad to see how some of the travelers treated it like a hotel where they should be served everything and these people were just "hired help". I had many Meagan moments in my head watching and taking in my current experience. To see such beauty that the earth has created and how as humans we own nothing but pretend to just the same. Seeing the trash that had accumulated around the edges of jimmy's space and the way the Argentine staying on the island would talk down to him as if there should be some huge separation acknowledged.

There was one very difficult moment when after our first night of sleep on the island, which was actually quite nice other than the sunburned back, we were taken to Isla Pelicana to spend the day reading, swimming, resting and more swimming. As soon as we arrived Pato, the argentine, walked straight through the families home site and found a little sea turtle. He brought it over to us and I took my time with it but was not interested in engaging too much. As I turned around I saw Pato release the small turtle to the other side. A few moments later a few of the young girls and a boy came up to me and Mary and asked about their turtle and if they could have it back. I was instantly furious with the Argentine and realized he had not said anything to the children just taken the turtle with no care of the reaction and put it out to the ocean. What was upsetting to me the most was the lack of care and communication that was shown. They asked for 5 dollars and it was paid but Pato seemed unfazed by the impact he just had on the children in this family. Mary and I soon made our disapproval known and enjoyed ourselves on other parts of the island. It soon occurred to me though that that turtle would have spent much of his life in a small box just big enough for him to survive so that they could take him to the market and charge a dollar for photos taken. This saddened me to see the lack of compassion taken by the people of the island and by the tourists who treat it like a show as if this is not a real reality and they can just visit it from time to time.

I see how paradise on earth is not "perfect" as it is on its own. Mary and I were subjected to many elements. The many Esses I call them. Sand, Salt Water, Sun and Stupid people. Though after three days on the islands (our last two night were spent in the small village in a hut crammed in with all the others) my body was worn down. I was covered in salt and sand with no chance at a shower until the city and my hair became a salty dry mat that I kept tied up in order to avoid the feel of it. But by that time I had found my place. This is not to say that I did not bask in the beauty of the natural surroundings and immerse myself in the clear water.

I knew I could not do much to make every one behave the way I thought best but I behaved the way I could find myself most comfortable. Mary and I played with the children taking pictures and showing them the results. I talked with Kuna and travelers alike but only those that felt comfortable to talk to. About how they lived and what life is like in all parts of the world. I introduced myself to the people who cooked my meals and helped in any way I could. The last night we were served king crab and I was like a little child at the table. I am sure that I had more shell on my plate at the end of the meal than any of the other 15 people feasting. Though I felt no embarrassment. I indulged very little and I felt crab was a safe bet.

I licked my fingers of the meal and we went to bed very satisfied in order to wake up early and catch a small flight back to the city. The plane was teeny and we flew low to the ground and instantly we were on the other side of the country back in the city. Our friends were there to meet us Meredith and our good friend Marisa were visiting. That day a few blocks from the hostel was a free all day Jazz festival. So we danced and Celebrated with friends all day and it was nice to be clean again and be able to take with me all that I had learned from my stay at Paradise.

Photos

This is a total mix of photos but here they are:


Here is the city of Rosario, Argentina where my good friend Nico´s family lives (May)
Here is the Monumento Nacional de La Bandera in Rosario (may)
Plaza De Maya Buenos Aires, AR (April)
Rosario

The Giant Hand at Punto Del Este, Uruguay (March)
Bulneariu Comboriu, Brasil (March)

My friends from the bus stop, Colombia (Dec)

Tim in his Christmas outfit
Mere in Cali, Colombia (Dec)
Christmas Dinner

Me in Iguazu Falls (Beginning of March)
Iguazu
Iguazu
Iguazu

Iguazu
Me on Isla del Pescado, Bolivia (Feb)
Me and Debbie in Copacabana Rio, Brasil (March)
Los Salares de Uyuni, Bolivia (Feb)

Uyuni
Uyuni

Uyuni Geyser
Cafayate Carnival
Laguna Verde, Uyuni

Cafayate (Feb)